I went on business to Tver region, which is around 6 hrs drive from Moscow. The place is famous for its deserted villages - indeed, in some places, just 2 or 3 families appear to survive out of a few dozen. We had to find a hotel somewhere and stopped in Kuvshinovo, because there was a "Hotel" sign on the road. I'll get back to the hotel in a while - but what a strange building was NEXT to it:
It looked absolutely out of place in this village, which boasted it's 70-year history on one of the signposts. This was definitely built before the 1917 revolution. I asked a waitress at the local cafe ("Cafe Malibu" serving beer ("We got draft, but you better take bottled"), red and white wine produced locally, and outstanding (I mean it, bcoz they bake them right there) sausage wraps) - and she said: "You guys are the first visitors who ask about this house. It used to be a Soviet club, but it was built as a "People's house" - by a local landlady. Her name was Kuvshinova (or, more friendly, "Kuvshiniha", as peasants called her) - hence the name of the village." Now, the house is said to have an underground passage to Kuvshinova's estate, across the river (!) Unfortunately, I had no time to investigate that.
(the facade, the side and back of the building; Lenin's statue in front)
The waitress said, Bolsheviks didn't make any amendments to the building, so it's fairly intact. Of course, they added the statue of Lenin, pointing towards the landlady's estate. Vladimir Ilyich apparently lost his lower jaw in his fight against time, but nobody cares to cure him or destroy him whatsoever.
The hotel, indeed, was right next to this house ("Yes, it IS the hotel, we didn't believe our eyes either", a couple sitting in front told us)
This is it.
"Yeah, we've got single rooms, but they are expensive" - warned the receptionist. "They are 480 roubles each ($20)"
- Any hot water?
- Yes, but there's one bath on each floor. You pay 80 roubles per person/per hour for hot bath, - and she added: But if you like, you can pay 80 roubles and wash around 15 minutes each. [there were 4 of us]
The rooms were quite decent
at the entrance was an ancient telephone - I haven't seen them for ages (must still accept Soviet coins, if you have any)
And here is my favourite pic from that hotel: a toilet sign with a profile, but because you can never make out, if this profile is male or female, there's a huge letter F scribbled with a marker over it.
Thursday, 31 July 2008
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